专访 | 魔都餐饮老板—遇外滩

2021-05-31 23:12:02

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来源:《环球美味》

人物简介 /Profile/

作为厦门人,吴嵘热爱闽南文化。厦门周边海域渔业发达,海鲜肥美种类繁多,有大量渔获样本可供学习。逐鲜而食同样成为本能,贯穿在他的记忆里,形成敏锐的直觉。吴嵘师承闽菜泰斗童辉星,有着正统而扎实的闽菜功底,日复一日的基础训练,让刀功、火候、调味成为他身体本能的一部分,也是今后能随心所欲创作的前提。从1998年开始自己的职业生涯,吴嵘曾经就职于厦门国宾馆、有着五十多年历史的“好清香”等五星酒店和高端餐厅。

吴嵘不受限于传统,走访四方食材产地,与世界各地优秀的主厨交流,在烹饪技法上有了更多的思考和选择。他在传承与创新间找到一条平衡之路:创新,使经典保持活力;经典,是创新的根基。吴嵘重新设计,每一道出品都是传统底蕴与创新精神的结合,形式纯净、隽永,足以展现福建风土的独特和富饶,也是现代闽菜应有的新姿。2018年12月,遇外滩餐厅开业,作为老板的吴嵘带领餐厅在2021《上海米其林指南》中摘得一星荣誉。

Hailing from Xiamen, Fujian Province, Wu Rong values his cultural heritage with his life. His hometown, Xiamen, at the southern end of China, is surrounded by pristine sea that flourishes with abundant seafood all year round, giving Fujian Cuisine its unique appeal. At a young age, Wu was already very much into cookery, a talent he was practically born with. Along his career path as chef, Wu was mentored by Chef Tong Huixing, the highly noted Master of Fujian Cuisine. Learning from his master, Wu gained his solid foundation for Fujian epicure, upon which he continued to perfect his cutting skills and techniques, temperature control, and whatever it takes to excel in his trade. With his mastery of the classics, Wu has the rightful freedom and logic to venture into innovative and imaginative culinary creations.

Over the years, Wu took his postings at prestigious global hospitality brands and high-end restaurants, such as Xiamen State Guesthouse and Hao Qing Xiang, to name a few. As a liberal thinker, Wu does not restrict himself to traditional cuisines. His traveled across many regions and engaged with various luminary chefs, opening wide avenues and new frontiers for developing the culinary style uniquely his own. Moreover, his ability to blend and harmonized tradition with innovation in delicate proportions is clearly manifested in the seasonal menus of the restaurant he created, Meet the Bund, which garnered 1-Michelin star right within the first year operation shown in the Michelin Guide Shanghai 2021.

作为餐厅老板的愿景和使命

Vision and Mission as Restaurateur

从小,我就对烹饪有着浓厚的兴趣,自幼在菜市场边上长大的我,最开心的事情就是陪着父母去逛菜市场,深受美食与食材的熏陶,然后慢慢发现,自己迷上了菜市场里的市井烟火气,从而爱上了烹饪。长大后,我觉得好吃的东西应该分享给更多的人,于是便有了开创餐厅的想法。

我的愿景是复兴福建菜,让其走出福建,受到更多人的欣赏和青睐。因此,我的使命是弘扬福建菜,将遇外滩做大做强。毫无疑问,最理想的选址是在上海,尤其是在风景瑰丽、历史悠久的外滩地区。我们给餐厅取名为“遇外滩”,意在让人们在摩登与历史完美演绎的外滩,邂逅地道而不乏创新的福建美味。

Since childhood, I already have the love of food and cooking running in my veins. At our residence beside a big food market, I grew up in an environment surrounded by fresh produces and myriad food products from the sea and land. The frequently errands I had with my parents in our daily marketing chore had been the happiest moment of my youth. Such routine further intensified my passion for cooking. As I matured and began to embrace the virtue of sharing and serving others, cooking for people became the greatest joy of my life.

Such intense enthusiasm brought about my vision to open a restaurant that would revive and propagate the cuisine of my hometown, referred to as Fujian cuisine or Min cuisine. With such vision translated into mission, I set forth to have my restaurant develop, refine, and promote Fujian Cuisine to higher levels of recognition and appreciation. Without saying, the best location to pilot my project is Shanghai, more so at its scenic historical Bund area. There, the fitting name I chose for my restaurant is Meet The Bund, suggesting the destination for people to engage in the pleasure of fine Fujian Cuisine while basking in the splendors of old Shanghai and as well the grandeur of the modern international metropolis.

餐厅理念

Defining Restaurant Concept

自创立起,遇外滩的定位就是“高端闽菜”。食不厌精,脍不厌细,我们要做的是钻研好烹饪的各个方面,把八闽大地的丰饶物产在这方十里洋场里细腻展示,同时,结合传承与创新的烹饪方式,去呈现一个更加有活力的闽菜新姿。

遇外滩位于上海的十六号码头,以外滩金融中心为“场”,将自身空间幻化为一件艺术品。在风格上,遇外滩利用福建红厝的颜色为基调,加入黄铜色点缀,将福建风貌还原于外滩,把福建的风土人情刻在了这座城市;在服务方面,福建闽南地区人家热情好客的基因是世代传承的,因此,贴心细致的服务是我们所倡导的;在品牌角度,坚定品牌的定位并不断前行,是遇外滩一直遵循的大方向。

Meet The Bund positions itself as a fine dining destination for sophisticated Fujian Cuisine, attuned to the modern milieu yet expressive of its rich heritage. The cuisine is born of a diverse landscape endowed with abundant food ingredients fresh from the sea, rivers, land, and high mountains. Having the right frame of mind with respect to sourcing and preparing indigenous, seasonal ingredients, coupled with culinary artistry and techniques, our restaurant aims at serving fine and exquisite Fujian dishes for both local and international diners in Shanghai. We pride ourselves in the seasonal menus we design wherein dishes we serve manifest the seamless harmony of tradition and innovation. Our food is expressive of authentic Fujian flavors endowed with a modern flair.

Located in the midst of a dazzling metropolis, our restaurant is designed to exude the sense of place unmistakably Fujianese. Interior design and décors, colors and lighting, wood furnishings and brass work were inspired by the traditional Fujianese Red House. Our picture windows open to the breathtaking view of the Bund and as well the dazzling commercial district. Our service reflects the ethics and civility of Fujian folks in extending warm, endearing southern hospitality. All these elements come together in defining our brand image, value and promise of contiual pursuit in providing the best for our guests.

餐饮行业的挑战

Challenges in Today's Catering Industry

餐饮业一直是个竞争激烈,落后就会挨打的行业。其优势在于激励各方不断做出创新和改变,促进行业繁荣发展,而挑战则在于各个品牌如雨后春笋冒出,带来各种新奇的冲击。

在中国八大菜系里,闽菜内秀其中。出了主场福建,名头并没有张扬,但遇外滩依托于福建本身依山傍海的地理优势,食材来源皆为自然山海间,让闽菜更加有迹可循。另一方面,遇外滩也积极响应政府“闽菜走出去”的号召,怀着“传承不守旧,创新不忘本”的态度,高度契合行业市场的风向,展示正典闽菜的现代新姿,让闽菜受到越来越多食客的欢迎。

The catering industry has been and will always be an industry where competition is fierce and consuming, akin to the principle of "survival of the fittest". Nonetheless, such challenge serves as driver for each and every establishment to rise above the occasion by continually adapting, re-creating, improving, and evolving with the changing time and conditions. In effect, new brands and enterprises emerge, propelling the industry towards further progress and prosperity.

Fujian cuisine is one of the eight major cuisines of China. However, its influence has always been limited within the region itself, and has not been given the respect and acknowledgement it so deserves throughout China. In the face of such aridity, Meet The Bund aims at popularizing Fujian cuisine by magnifying its geographical advantages, as with its high mountains, sprawling terrains, and pristine waters. Food ingredients are abundant, natural, prime, and traceable. Furthermore, Meet The Bund is proactive in response to our government impetus of "Promoting Fujian cuisine beyond its border" and also "Reviving its tradition and revisiting its roots via innovation". Such calling attests to the importance of having the renewed vigor and vitality in meeting the challenges facing today's industry and market. Pursuant to this calling, Meet The Bund is poised to raise Fujian cuisine to a higher and farther level of prestige and recognition.

不断变化的美食潮流

Changing Food Trends

餐饮是一个与时俱进的行业,每个阶段都会有新的美食潮流,我们都要去接受这个市场的变化。我还是希望做好食物本身的东西,让食客品尝到真正健康的美味。

Catering is an industry that paces closely with the changing time. New food trends will continually evolve to suit new lifestyle, changing environment, and increasing market demands. But regardless, I stand steadfast in prioritizing good food served in the best interest of diners, and in particular with respect to health, quality, authenticity, and taste.

团队精神和价值观

Teamwork and Values

在对于团队的管理上,我一直采用“收放并兼”的做法。在创作学习方面,不设定框架,让他们天马行空,勇于尝试,大胆地去交流实践,这就是所谓的“放”;“收”主要在于一些原则性问题,比如企业的规章制度,为人处世的基本原则,这些都是需要牢牢遵守的标准,必须得严肃执行。我一直坚信,合理的“收放”方式才能最大程度地让团队高效运转。

My management approach to teamwork is combining controlling and empowering, or "Tightening and Loosening" so to speak. In areas of learning and creativity, bounderies are not set, thus empowering team members to think and learn for themselves. This also opens up communication channels and interpersonal exchanges, thereby realizing value where it is at. As for control, rules, and regulations are set as guiding principles for each one to meet standards, targets, and obligations. By so doing, maximum efficiency in both management and operations can be assured.

在对于团队的管理上,我一直采用“收放并兼”的做法。在创作学习方面,不设定框架,让他们天马行空,勇于尝试,大胆地去交流实践,这就是所谓的“放”;“收”主要在于一些原则性问题,比如企业的规章制度,为人处世的基本原则,这些都是需要牢牢遵守的标准,必须得严肃执行。我一直坚信,合理的“收放”方式才能最大程度地让团队高效运转。

餐厅评选和奖项

Restaurant Awards and Accolades

众多评选的奖项对于餐饮品牌而言无非是一种肯定,通过各个维度来评判一家餐厅的水平。对于消费者来说,该品牌肯定是在市场标准之上,值得一试的餐厅。一个卓越的餐厅需要的是时刻创新的活力、来自四方新鲜的好食材、顶级的烹饪水平、优质的餐品、舒适的用餐环境及体贴的服务等,一个好的餐饮品牌,各个方面都得做到出类拔萃。

Numerous restaurant awards and accolades are but recognition for those on par with set criteria and standards. For consumers, such publicized recognitions serve as guide and endorsement for their choices and preferences ion dining. In this competitive arena, one has to work extremely hard to excel in terms of quality and freshness of ingredients, cutting-edge skills and culinary techniques, creative ideas and innovative approaches, good presentations and seasoned service. These plus added assets such as good settings and condusive environment. They these come together in defining that which can be deemed as exceptional.

终极梦想

My Ultimate Dream

如果我被赋予才华、权利和财力资源,我想先把自己的事业做好,发扬好福建闽菜文化,然后去帮助别人,大家一起强大。

If I am given all the talents, authority, and financial resources, I will raise Fujian cuisine to its highest pedestal, after which I will engage myself in helping others to become better and stronger restaurateurs.

如果我不是餐厅老板

If I were Not a Restaurateur

如果没能成为餐厅老板,我会做好厨师,同样可以把美味带给大家,因为是真的喜欢这个行业。

If fate struck me otherwise from being a restaurateur, I would imagine myself as a chef, serving great food for all those to come to my table. I cannot think of any other work unrelated to food and beverage services.

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